skin & beautycare from a 40 year old with acne prone skin

my mantra is "less is more"

Oct 01, 2024

Note: This blog post does not provide medical advice. It is intended for informational purposes only. It is not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. I am not a professional skincare specialist, aesthetician or dermatologist. I would consult a medical professional if you are seeking professional guidance or expertise. The information I am sharing is my personal skincare and beauty journey.

Acne is the source of all my anxieties.

As a habitual picker with OCD like tendencies, acne has been the bane of my existence ever since my 20s.

And now, as a 40 year old, it still is.

A few here and there at the onset of my monthly menstrual cycle are fine. But I’m talking about the really painful ones, those that feel like marbles under your skin and try as you might, you just can’t ignore it. How can you, when even though you’ve sworn off picking and touching it, it’s staring at you right back? The more you touch it, the more it becomes sensitive to the touch, and don’t get me started on the inflammation.

When I lived in New York City, I would see an aesthetician every month, and she once told me whenever I sense a flare up, it will go away on its own once I ignore it.

This wasn’t true (at least, not for me).

During the semester before I graduated, my acne breakouts became particularly bad, and I finally went to see a dermatologist, who prescribed me a few creams, one of which was tretinoin. Within months, my skin more or less stabilized.

I didn’t see a dermatologist again until the summer of 2022. From the constant mask use, my skin was ravaged during COVID-19, with breakout after breakout, leaving hyperpigmentation scars all over my chin, cheeks and some alongside my temples. It was so emotionally exhausting and mentally draining, because as soon as one “cleared,” another would threaten to surface.

I tried laser therapy, which definitely helped my skin calm a bit and was a great short-term fix, but I needed something a bit more heavy duty.

My dermatologist prescribed Retin-A cream and doxycycline (to take for three months with meals), and recommended a follow up appointment. After a “purging” period of about one month, my skin started to look and feel better.

SKINCARE

Ever since turning 40, I’ve restrained myself from using new products. It seems like we hear about a new, breakthrough technology every month, or even every week. During COVID, there was a heightened interest in “less is more” and acids and serums were marketed heavily. At least, for me, it was everywhere. Vitamin C serums, hyaluronic acids, azelaic acids, salicylic acids, face oils, etc. It was overwhelming. I learned a hard lesson that what works for one person may not work for another, and that included me. For me, less is more. I spent so much money on all the stuff that was trending, or went viral. The best investment I made was in finding a dermatologist who cut through all the bullshit and gave me exactly what my skin needed.

In the morning I cleanse with the Youth to the People Kale + Green Tea Spinach Vitamins Superfood cleanser. I pat my face dry and apply three to four drops of Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Toner all over my face. It is fragrance free and paraben free, very gentle on my skin, and infused with avocado oil and vitamin e. I don’t apply any serums or creams or anything.

In the evenings when I’m winding down, I do a double cleanse by first removing my makeup with the Farmacy Green Clean Makeup Removing Cleansing balm and then cleansing with the Youth to the People. I apply the same Kiehl’s toner and after my skin soaks it up, I apply a pea sized amount of retin-A cream on my chin and lower cheeks. I apply the cream every other day.

MAKEUP

I love buying makeup, but I don’t wear much of it. My skin forever changed after COVID. Also, I got older. I never though adult acne would be a thing but for me it is. As a result I have an interesting relationship with my skin. As a first step, I apply a chemical sunscreen as the “base” of my makeup. I’ve been using Elta MD UV Clear Facial Sunscreen in SPF 46 for about a year. I like how it comes with a pump and you dispense just the perfect amount onto your hand. I love it so much that I have a quarterly subscription based plan to replenish whenever I’m running low on this stuff. It doesn’t leave a white cast and is fragrance free, which is huge. I have a childhood trauma of being forced to wear fragrance heavy sunscreens so I am pretty selective of what I put on my skin. I also include to apply some on my neck.

Instead of foundation, I use the Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint in G11 (light neutral). I shake it a couple times and apply it to my cheeks and chin, use my fingers to work it in. The Stretch Concealer in Light 5 is next, for the areas on my chin where there are hyperpigmentation spots. Sometimes I swipe a little under each eye for a “brightening” effect because I do tend to get shadows there when I am tired. Again, I use my fingers. I use my fingers for everything.

The Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Finish Setting Powder in 2 medium is what I use to reduce shine after applying sunscreen and skin tint. I’ve already hit pan on my second purchase. I apply with the smaller end of the Hourglass Veil Powder Brush. I swirl the brush in a circular motion and then gently press and tap into my forehead, nose bridge, cheeks, and chin.

Next is brows. Every two to two and a half years I get my brows microbladed by Elysia An at Hera Permanent Makeup, whose clients include content creators, influencers and celebrities. I “clean” using tweezers and maintain its upkeep by trimming longer hairs once every two to three months. I don’t mess with its shape, but I do use my Glossier Boy Brow in dark brown to fill in sparse areas and make it look a bit “fuller.” I naturally have straight eyebrows, and am learning to appreciate them as they are.

For eyes, I swipe Nudestix Magnetic Eye Color in Smoke just along the lash line. It is a very subtle and pretty, applies smoothly and I love it for its true dark brown color for some depth. It reminds me of a crayon, and the best part is it comes with its own sharpener. Then I apply a thin line of Byredo liquid liner in Practice Brown.

I always loved a sleek cat eye, ever since liquid eyeliners became a huge thing in the early 2000s. No one taught me how to use a liquid eyeliner, and I remember messing up so much trying to apply it. I have hooded eyelids, so it wasn’t easy, it got everywhere; on my fingers, I would blink and then it would get all over my lashes. I practiced with a creamy eye pencil for years, and then finally (I don’t remember when) practiced with liquid eyeliners until I felt more comfortable applying and wearing them. What really helped was when it was packed looking like a marker with a felt tip. It felt more “ergonomic.”

Usually I don’t wear blush, but when I do, I would rather go for something creamy because I can use my fingers. Merit’s Flush Balm in Mood is so pretty and gives me the most natural tint of color. I have like three of Merit’s blushes, and Mood is my favorite.

My lip products are on constant rotation. For everyday, I gravitate towards Rhode’s Peptide Lip Tint in Toast because it is not sticky and gives me MLBB lips. Lipliners are like icing on the cake. I like going in with Glossier Lip Line Enhancing Hydrating Longwear lipliners in Buff and Graze (sometimes I use both at the same time; Graze for the outer edges and Buff for the cupid’s bow and bottom lip line for a fuller look). I also carry around a Burt’s Bees Tinted Lip Balm in Rose and Dahlia for a subtle pinky flush of color.

When I am not at work, I wear more vibrant colors to experiment. If I want to feel chic and sophisticated, I love a good red lip that is slightly warmer. Merit’s Signature Lip Lightweight Matte Lipstick in Vermilion is a warm red color that I can apply without a mirror. I also love Gucci’s sheer lip balm in Goldie Red. Gucci lipsticks are so beautiful because the packaging is very vintage inspired.

I’m a chronic picker, and sometimes I pick at my lips, which can be flaky when dehydrated. I’m trying not to do that but I can’t help it. I am working on maintaining healthy lips, so I periodically use Tatcha’s Kissu Lip Scrub and Lip Treatment. Another great option is Freck Beauty’s Rich Bitch Nourishing Plant and Peptide Lip Balm, which is hydrating and super comfy especially if you want to wear a matte red. In the evenings, I like to apply the True Botanicals Moisture Lock Glossy Lip Balm in the original/clear color. It smells like roses.

HAIR

My hair is naturally very thick and wavy. I would get a trim every 3 to 6 months; when I went crazy with my hair and bleached it a multitude of colors (pinks, blues, purples, blonde) a few years ago, I trimmed every 3 months because of how damaged my hair was. I loved having blonde hair, but missed the stability and low maintenance of having dark brown hair so I changed it back. It was a great experience though; I am glad to say I did it for a good year or so, and am happy to be back to where I was.

Though I am starting to get grays now, especially along the hair line and random long strands towards the back. I am learning to embrace them, though this is definitely a process because I can’t help plucking them with out. I recently had my hair chemically straightened which is nice because I don’t need to style or blow dry them. After a wash, I just comb it out and leave it be, and it dries naturally stick straight with no waves or creases.

For several years, I had a short bob, which I absolutely loved. I am trying to grow it out now. Eventually I will cut it again, because I miss having short hair.

I alternate between two different brands because I get dandruffs. I love Nécessaire’s Rosemary scented shampoo and conditioner. I alternate with Ouai’s Anti Dandruff Shampoo and Thick Hair Conditioner.

I towel dry my hair just enough so that water doesn’t drip, but I leave it damp to air dry. I comb with a Wet Brush, and apply two small pumps of Verb’s Ghost Air Dry Whip for a smoothing effect on the ends.

Every second or third day, I apply Rahua’s Voluminous Dry Shampoo at the crown of my head. It smells good and adds volume. Best of all, it is a non-aerosol dispenser which is what I prefer.

NAILS

I am such a picker; on bad days, the skin around my thumbs are peeling and painful. It gets worse I feel stressed. Every night I apply La Roche-Posay’s Cicaplast Hand Cream to my fingers.

It affects days when I get my nails done, because I make sure that the skin around the nails are in better shape when I have a pending appointment.

I get gel nails every 3 to 6 months. Occasionally if I feel like really dressing up my nails, I go to Kkhot Nails (which means “Flower Nails” in Korean) to see Mary at her home office. She uses a soft gel from Korea that you can easily cut when your nails get too long. They’re like abstract art, it’s so beautiful and she has seasonal menus that she shares on her Instagram. I typically like really short nails because I work with little kids. I used to have almond shaped nails and nearly scratched a kid’s face; after that, I’ve kept my nails pretty short. It’s easier to type with short nails anyway.

FRAGRANCE

My fragrance journey is definitely that, because I change scents with every season. Though there is one perfume that I found that I know I could wear all year long; Byredo’s Mixed Emotions really gave me mixed emotions because I wasn’t sure if it was for me. Before buying perfume it’s important to wear it a couple of times and wear it out of the store, go for a walk, and and let soak it before you really invest. I always ask for dram sized samples for this reason.

On my last trip to the store, I tried it on again, and then went back the next day to buy it. And now, I love it.

Other favorite scents I love are Maison d’Etto’s Durban Jane and Noisette, and Aesop’s Rozu.

Currently in my home, I am burning Byredo’s Burning Rose. I always try to have real plants, candles and fresh flowers in my house to make it look lively.